Simple beauty

After the big celebration of Palm Sunday, I was ready for a low key day.  On my way to pick up a few supplies I stopped at one of my favorite churches in Rome,  Santa Marie in Trastevere.

 This is probably one of the first official places of worship in Rome from the third century.  It has two features that make it special.  The mosaics are exquisite and shine forth even though the church is dimly lit.  

Mary and Jesus are central figures of course.

The flooring is called cosmatesque mosaic and has been fixed up since it was laid in the 12th century.  

These two kinds of mosaics draw one to just sit a while and take it all in, whether you are looking up or down.  Mass was scheduled and it became a simple way to celebrate today as I prayed and received the Lord.  The mosaic patterns and pictures allowed a beauty to slow me down and receive.

The palm branch

We walked to St. Peter's early this morning so that we could receive our instructions for being a Communion Minister at a Papal liturgy.  First requirement was that we wear a cassock and surplice.  I don't remember the last time I had done that.  But there I was ready to go.

Then we took our seats in the altar area and prayed the scripture readings and the passion.  There were about 50 of us priests given this task.

During the creed they brought us each a ciborium and we stood together in front of and below the altar.  Pope Francis consecrated the hosts right in our hands.  I felt very close to Jesus as Pope Francis prayed.  During the Our Father we were lead to our place of distribution.  This method helps move things along with 10's of thousands present.  Afterwards we returned our ciboria and left our vestments.  By then Pope Francis had finished mass and was touring in his pope-mobile.

As I walked away from the square I reached in my pocket and pulled out a sprig of palm.  I had snatched it off the ground as I walked early this morning, figuring it might be all I would find today.  It had survived, a bit droopy and scrunched, but a palm, my palm.  Praise to You, Lord Jesus Christ.

Empty seats

It was moving day for me again.  I moved from Domus Internationalis in downtown Rome to the North 

American College by the Vatican.  Tomorrow begins Holy Week, of course, and it allows me to participate much easier.  This is the seminary where Fr. Colletti received his formation.   Most of the students are out helping in various places.  It is nice for me because they speak English here.  God has been watching over me because I was informed they had a few extra tickets for priest communion distributors at the Palm Sunday liturgy with Pope Francis.  So I snatched one of them immediately (Me, Me, Me -- again).  So I wandered over to check out the square and the seats were all set up, waiting for the celebration tomorrow.  Think of me tomorrow as you celebrate and I will hold you all in prayer as we begin the most Holy Week of the year.

These stones also shout

Today took me to the Borghese Museum in Rome.  It is a small collection compared to the Vatican Museum but has some real treasures.

 The sculptures are exquisite--this is Bernini's statue of David getting ready to hurl the stone at Goliath.  It is much more active than Michaelangelo's which was earlier in my blog.  The other is Scipione Borghese who pulled most of  this collection together.

And the Caravaggio room was a favorite of mine in the painting world.  This one is of St. Jerome translating the Bible into Latin.

I marvel at the way these artists can change marble into human images that jump out at you.  And the paintings seem to paint a view of reality that is so real.  These are my attempts at pictures without flash but hopefully will invite you to Rome someday to see them in person.!?!

The stones will shout

I arrived in the little town of Loreto.  The tradition is that the house of Mary was transported from Nazareth to Loreto by angels.  I came with a certain amount of doubt and questioning.  I found the church with the house protected inside of it.

 I began to study and read, finding that during the Crusades (1290's) the Angeli family was involved and concerned for the protection of Mary's house in Nazareth.  It is not absolutely sure but somehow they arranged for the transfer of these stones to Italy where it could be protected by the Church.  The Cardinal who was in charge of such matters was from this area and chose Loreto for their home.  The bricks have been examined and found to be from the Nazareth area.  Having just been in Nazareth and knowing the grotto there and the explanation here, it suddenly seemed very plausible.  Yesterday was the feast of the Anunciation!  

Then I realized that this house (or what's left of it) is where the Anunciation took place!  There were a lot of people around and I prayed the Eucharist with them and then headed into the house. The lower   one third of the walls are the Nazareth bricks and the rest above it has been added over the years.  I stood with my hands on the ancient bricks that had witnessed this event.  The stones were shouting -- Jesus came to us and blessed our (my) humanity.  This Presence is near and within my person each day.  Mary of Loreto, pray for us.

John MICHAEL Kunz

I was told that from San Giovanni Rotondo one of the places to visit is Monte San Angelo.  Padre Pio and many others over the centuries have gone there on pilgrimage.  So once again I became a pilgrim. It was a bus ride up into the sky with a magnificent view of the Adriatic Sea coast.  I was dropped in the middle of the town not knowing what I was supposed to visit.  I thought it would be obvious.  I searched a while and decided to have lunch.  The owner of the Ristorante told me the place to go was the Saint Michael Shrine just up the road.  So I set off.  The tradition states that St. Michael the Archangel appeared here 4 times beginning in the 400's A.D.  It still exists in the same form--a cave or grotto.  "The Sacred Grotto, for centuries has been the destination of pilgrimages, a place of prayer and above all of reconciliation with God.  In fact, the apparitions of the Archangel are a sign, an invitation to the person to bow down with reverent confidence before the Divine Majesty and realise God's personal love for us."  I stood in awe and silence in this most holy place.  You could feel God's love and Michael's strength right within the stones that held the prayers of the centuries.  Today I learned more about my middle name.  I snapped the front entry but no pictures were allowed inside the grotto.  So the one here is of a photograph.

Being a stranger

It is a day to be on the road again--train and bus to San Giovanni Rotondo.  The train went smoothly and was very relaxing to watch the Italian countryside go by.  When I got to Foggia it was time to transfer to a bus.  As a stranger who doesn't know the language nor the local customs it is often a challenge to find one's way.  As I got on the bus and went to my seat I realized I did not punch my ticket.  As I headed up the aisle I met an Italian woman who gave me a dirty look, as if to say,  "You are doing this wrong!"  I felt stupid and tried to apologize in my worst Italian.  As I settled back into my seat I felt the pain of being a stranger myself.  I began to wonder how I treat  strangers or people not like me.  What kind of vibes do I send out by my looks and actions?  Anyhow I made it to San Giovanni Rotondo, the place where Padre Pio spent much of his life and where he is buried.  There is a strong devotion to him and it is one of the biggest pilgrimage sites in Italy, probably because he lived so recently.  He received the stigmata in his lifetime and died in 1968.  Pope John Paul II has been here and canonized him in Rome in 2002.  Below are some pictures of the campus and his tomb.

Me, Me, Me!

Today, Sunday, I trekked through the rain to concelebrate Mass at St. Peter's basilica in Rome.  I vested in the sacristy and the master of ceremonies came over to the priests and asked if anyone spoke English, so they could read a petition.  I felt like a little kid jumping up and saying "Me, Me, Me".  I didn't do that.  However I was picked.  It was a thrill to read and hear my voice over the sound system in St. Peter's. Afterwards I snapped several pictures to hold the moment.  This is the main altar where only the pope celebrates.

The altar behind it, under the Spirit window, is called the altar of the chair. It contains  Peter's original chair, which is quite decorated with bronze now. 

Another moment to be received and treasured.

Loyola

This morning I went to the tomb of St. Ignatius of Loyola.  And this afternoon I went to his rooms, especially the one where he died.  It made me conscious of Fr. Don and all he is doing in my absence.  But I also thought of our school, Loyola, which follows in his tradition.  I wasn't there soon enough to help the boys and girls basketball teams to get into State, but I believe St. Ignatius can help our school and each student to be more centered in our faith in Jesus.  So as we approach Easter, my thoughts and prayers are with all of you.  The Church of his burial is quite magnificent and large but his room is very simple and small.  I only have a picture of the Church and tomb.

2 Kevins

My day was to arrange participation in the Vatican Holy Week liturgies.  So I was dressed in my clerics.  I went and was turned away from the office.  As I left a young man in a collar came along and I asked if he could help me.  His name was Kevin from Austin, Texas!!  He proceeded to get me in and at least get my name on the list.  Wow!  As I was walking home a young man approached me to buy a bracelet.  When I said no, he responded, "Father, do you know how hard it is?"  He proceeded to tell me his endless search and seeming failure to make progress in his life.  I listened and listened and responded as well as I could.  I gave him a few euros and as I turned to leave, I asked his name.  He said, "Kevin".

Rome, part 1

After spending some days in Tuscany;  Barb, Don and I headed to the big city of Rome.  The days in Rome have been lovely, even though it rained for one of the days.  We tried to hit everything we could. It is amazing what you can fit into some days.  My walker app showed that I walked over 8 miles one of the days.  So the last day arrived and we began with an audience with the pope in St. Peter's square.  

Then we toured the Vatican Museum.  

Finally we ended with a  dinner at Piazza Navonna.  

Those of you who went on the pilgrimage remember this spot.  We finished the evening with a glass of lemonchello, of course.  So then I sent them off, returning to Florence and soon Chicago.  It was great to be together for the last 10 days.  

St. Robert

Don and Barb, my sister have never been to Italy, much less Rome.  So Rome was the destination for some days.  Its been great traveling together and seeing the sites.  Just a couple of moments:  1) The tomb of St. Robert Bellarmine.  My father's name was Robert and so we went to his tomb to be close to dad for a moment.  St. Robert lived in Montepulciano (we had just been there) and Rome in the 16th and 17th centuries.  He was a Jesuit (like Pope Francis) and himself received some votes to be elected pope in those days.  Nice moment. St. Robert Bellarmine and Robert Kunz (my personal saint) watch over us in these day.

2) St. Peter's, always a site to see.

3)The Colloseum, a great Roman site

Wine, women and no song

Today we traveled to Montepulciano, a Tuscan town on top of a high hill.  It was a lovely and peaceful visit.  After lunch we toured a wine cellar of one of the wineries in town.  We tasted a few and bought none.  Then we walked around town and saw a group of women sitting on a bench.  I asked if I could take their picture and carry it back to America.  They though that was pretty neat.  So there you have it.

Biking in Arezzo

We drove through a lovely part of Tuscany arriving in Arezzo.  No, I was not going to bike around the city, especially since it is extremely hilly.  We discovered the European Bike Tour was there that day.  After a bite to eat, we found ourselves standing at the finish line waiting for the bikers to show.  It was exciting with lots of people and cheering, flags and colors.  We don't know who won or who lost, but we had fun.  It actually was nice not cheering for anyone in particular but just enjoying the moment.  

David who?

Our visit to the Academia in Florence seemed anticlimatic after all that we had seen in Florence.  Actually we had seen the replica of this statue in the Piazza.  But the actual sight of this majestic sculpture by Michelangelo is breath taking.  They have recently cleaned it and so the luster of the marble makes him appear bigger than he is.  Maybe that is what Goliath thought also when he encountered this young man.  You can see him holding the sling and looking proudly forward in this moment after the slaying.  It is a masterpiece.  Today is our moment to create a masterpiece wherever we are, with God's help.

Assisi here we come

Today we made the two hour drive to Assisi.  It was a glorious and sunny day which picked up our spirits.  We discovered again the simplicity and power of St. Francis and St. Clare.  Even in the midst of the big churches and magnificent artwork, we found two examples of faith filled lives and genuine searching for God's ways.  It seemed to draw me back to the calling of these Lenten days--keep praying and searching and God will reveal a path.   This first picture is of the Church of St. Francis of Assisi.  

The second picture is of the Church of St. Clare (This is for you Clare Braswell as you prepare for first communion).

Finally I add a prayer for all of us today.  Frances prayed before this image of Christ and it moved him powerfully.  Here is the simple prayer we were given to pray there.

Under the Tuscan sun

My sister found this lovely spot for us to stay.  It's in the village of Loro Cuiffenna, about 30 miles out of Florence.  It has been a beautiful surprise.  I  sleep to the souund of the mountain stream that flows by my window.  I did not plan for this and just entrusted this part to Barb.  Wow, did she come up with a winner.  We are out in the country, away from the rush of the city.  The locals are very kind and helpful as we go here and there.  Our rooms are on the top floor of  the white building.  This place is a good reminder to slow down and receive each moment that comes, treasuring the people who come along and surprises that come our way.

The great horse race

We visited Siena yesterday where twice a year is a great horse in the center of the city, Piazza del Campo.  Below is a picture of the race which is run in July and August.

 The scene was much calmer for us.  Once again, we found the lure of these center of the city piazzas.

 It was also finally warming up.  I hear it is finally warming in Minnesota also.  Of course, their main Church, another Duomo, is majestic and a real treasure.  

We climbed to a high viewing point to see the whole city.  

It made me stop and again treasure what God has given us in our abilities.  We can be creative and life giving in all we do.  Thank you, God.